A tough wiry mat spreading flat from one central point, with small dull blue-green oval leaves and a papery white sheath wrapping the stem at every leaf joint, almost always in hard-packed ground along driveways, sidewalks and worn footpaths.
Photo: Wikimedia Commons
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Small plants pull easily from moist soil before the mat toughens. Knotweed grows where soil is compacted — along walks and driveways — so core aerate and thicken the turf or it returns every year.
Formulated to kill prostrate knotweed without wiping out your grass — see the timing and chemistry below.
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Scotts Turf Builder Triple Action1
✓ Kills prostrate knotweedBeginner friendlyPrevents crabgrass for up to 4 months, kills dandelion, clover and other listed broadleaf weeds, and feeds. Apply to wet grass, no more than twice a year. Not for St. Augustine. Its label allows centipede, but centipede does better with a stand-alone weed killer and a lighter feeding.

BioAdvanced All-In-One Weed & Feed (22-0-4)
✓ Kills prostrate knotweedBeginner friendly
Scotts Turf Builder Weed & Feed5
✓ Kills prostrate knotweedBeginner friendlyWeed killer plus 26-0-2 lawn food for dandelion, clover and other listed broadleaf weeds. Apply to wet grass. On bahia, wait until mid-April and the third mowing, and make fall applications before Nov 1. Not for St. Augustine. Its label allows centipede, but centipede does better with a stand-alone weed killer and a lighter feeding.
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Spray in spring or fall when temperatures are 60–80°F and the weed is actively growing. Avoid summer heat — stressed grass takes collateral damage.
A three-way 2,4-D + MCPP + dicamba is the reliable pick — dicamba does the real work here — sprayed spring to early summer while plants are still small, because mature mats shrug it off. On St. Augustine and centipede use only a three-way labeled for them at the reduced rate, never above 90°F. Triclopyr is a cool-season-only alternative (tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, ryegrass, fine fescue) — its label warns against St. Augustine, centipede, bahia, bermuda and zoysia. Knotweed germinates near 40°F soil temperature, six to eight weeks before crabgrass, so a pre-emergent (prodiamine, dithiopyr or pendimethalin) must go down in late winter — well before normal crabgrass timing — or in late fall. Skip the pre-emergent anywhere you plan to seed.
Core aerate — knotweed is a living compaction indicator and grows exactly where turf roots cannot. Reroute the traffic that caused it (stepping stones, a path) and reseed, or it returns every single year.
Relieve compaction with annual core aeration and stop foot and mower traffic wearing the same line.
Stop fighting weeds one by one →
A thick, healthy lawn is the best weed killer there is. Measure your yard on a satellite map in 30 seconds — we'll build a personalized schedule (fertilizer, seed, mowing, weed control) so prostrate knotweed doesn't come back.
Measure my lawn — it's free →A tough wiry mat spreading flat from one central point, with small dull blue-green oval leaves and a papery white sheath wrapping the stem at every leaf joint, almost always in hard-packed ground along driveways, sidewalks and worn footpaths.
Spray or dig. Small plants pull easily from moist soil before the mat toughens. Knotweed grows where soil is compacted — along walks and driveways — so core aerate and thicken the turf or it returns every year.
Prostrate Knotweed is rated moderate to control. Consistent treatment over a season usually does the job.
Relieve compaction with annual core aeration and stop foot and mower traffic wearing the same line.
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