Feeding centipede like a bermuda or fescue lawn is a leading cause of centipede decline. Keep feeding light, skip lime unless a soil test calls for it, and do not chase a darker green color.
Centipede makes a low, medium-textured lawn with a light apple-green color. It spreads slowly by short, thick runners that look a little like centipedes, which is how it got its name. It is naturally paler than most lawn grasses, and pushing it darker with fertilizer is a common cause of centipede decline.
Photo: Michael Rivera · CC BY-SA 4.0 · via Wikimedia Commons
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Best time: May–June. Also workable: April, July.
Common centipede and TifBlair are sold as seed, but the seed is slow to sprout and a seeded lawn can take up to three years to become thick and even. Sod is the fastest route to a finished lawn.
In Australia or New Zealand? The seasons flip — shift these months by six, or see the Southern Hemisphere lawn calendar.
| Spring | Summer | Fall | Winter |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1.5"–2" | 1.5"–2" | 1.5"–2" | Dormant |
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Centipede is a Southeastern grass, most at home on the acidic soils of the Carolinas, Georgia, Alabama and Florida. Common centipede is limited by cold in Tennessee and the upper South, where the cold-hardier TifBlair and TennTurf do better. It struggles on alkaline soils and in salty coastal sites.
St. Augustine blades are noticeably wider, with smooth, blunt tips, and its runners are thicker. Centipede blades are narrower and paler, with small hairs along the edges near the base.
Carpetgrass
Carpetgrass looks very similar, but its blade edges have no hairs and its seedhead has two to five spikes, like crabgrass. Centipede has hairy edges near the base and a single slender spike.
Zoysia blades are stiff with upright hairs on the upper surface, and its youngest leaf is rolled. Centipede is lighter green and its youngest leaf is folded.
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Measure my lawn — it's free →Usually it is iron chlorosis, caused by soil pH that is too high for centipede or by too much phosphorus. An iron spray will green it up for a while, but a soil test shows whether pH is the real problem. Yellow patches that appear as the lawn greens up in spring can also be an early sign of centipede decline.
Yes. Common centipede and TifBlair are both sold as seed. The seed is tiny and slow, taking two to four weeks to sprout, and a seeded lawn can take up to three years to become thick and even. Sow in late spring into warm, moist soil, and mix the seed with sand to spread it evenly.
It is a die-off in which patches of centipede fail to green up or turn brown and die in spring and early summer. It usually traces back to how the lawn is managed: too much fertilizer, high soil pH, heavy thatch, mowing too low and drought stress. Correcting those habits prevents most cases.
Because it needs so little care. Centipede grows slowly, needs less mowing than most lawn grasses and gets by on very little fertilizer. The catch is that extra feeding and unneeded lime hurt it, so with centipede, doing less really is the right approach.
No. Centipede has shallow roots, grows slowly and recovers poorly from wear, so it thins on play areas, dog runs and paths. It suits front yards and low-traffic lawns. If your yard gets hard use, bermuda or zoysia will hold up far better where they grow.
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