A low, dense, spreading carpet of shiny light-green grass-like blades on triangular stems, each topped by a single round green seedhead about the size of a pea sitting on top of three small leaves — unlike nutsedge, which pops up as scattered upright shoots rather than a solid mat.
Photo: Wikimedia Commons
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Spraying is the practical route — kyllinga's rhizome mat regrows from fragments if you dig it. Hand-pulling only works for a brand-new single sprig before the mat forms.
Formulated to kill green kyllinga without wiping out your grass — see the timing and chemistry below.
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SedgeHammer Plus Turf Herbicide (13.5g)
✓ Kills green kyllingaBeginner friendlyThe go-to nutsedge herbicide - targets sedges specifically without harming your lawn grass, and the pre-mixed surfactant means nothing extra to buy.

Blindside Herbicide WDG (8 oz)
✓ Kills green kyllingaProfessional-grade dual-action herbicide. Kills both broadleaf weeds AND sedges in a single application. Extremely concentrated — lasts years for residential use.

Image Kills Nutsedge Concentrate (24 oz)
Beginner friendlyNutsedge and dollarweed on warm-season lawns — attacks tubers underground for lasting control
How much do you need?
Herbicide is dosed by lawn size. Pick your yard size for a quick estimate:
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Measure your lawn on a satellite map in about 30 seconds, then use its exact square footage to choose the right number of packs.
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Treat in late spring through summer while the sedge is actively growing — dormant plants shrug off herbicide.
Halosulfuron (SedgeHammer+, Hi-Yield Nutsedge Control) is the homeowner product that works on green kyllinga, labeled for bermuda, zoysia, St. Augustine, centipede, bahia, tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass and ryegrass — but confirm your grass is on your product's label before spraying, especially fine fescue and bentgrass, which many labels exclude. Kyllinga spreads by rhizomes, so one spray only knocks the top off: plan 2-3 applications 6-8 weeks apart while it is actively growing (late spring through late summer), and expect a repeat next season on an established mat. SedgeHammer+ has surfactant mixed in; plain halosulfuron needs a non-ionic surfactant added or it underperforms. Sulfentrazone products burn it down faster but need the reduced rate on St. Augustine and centipede and can injure fine fescue and bentgrass. Do not spray lawns seeded within the last 4 weeks.
Kyllinga is a wet-soil weed: cut back irrigation, fix low spots and poor drainage, and it loses the advantage it has over your grass. A single small young patch can be dug out, but you must lift every rhizome, because any fragment left behind starts a new patch.
Water deeply but infrequently instead of daily, keep drainage moving, and hose soil off mower wheels before moving from an infested area onto clean lawn.
Stop fighting weeds one by one →
A thick, healthy lawn is the best weed killer there is. Measure your yard on a satellite map in 30 seconds — we'll build a personalized schedule (fertilizer, seed, mowing, weed control) so green kyllinga doesn't come back.
Measure my lawn — it's free →A low, dense, spreading carpet of shiny light-green grass-like blades on triangular stems, each topped by a single round green seedhead about the size of a pea sitting on top of three small leaves — unlike nutsedge, which pops up as scattered upright shoots rather than a solid mat.
Herbicide spray. Spraying is the practical route — kyllinga's rhizome mat regrows from fragments if you dig it. Hand-pulling only works for a brand-new single sprig before the mat forms.
Green Kyllinga is rated hard to control. It usually requires multiple applications and a consistent plan.
Water deeply but infrequently instead of daily, keep drainage moving, and hose soil off mower wheels before moving from an infested area onto clean lawn.
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