Each window lists what to do and when, tuned to Atlanta's climate and Bermudagrass. Timing runs on soil temperature, so treat these as guides and confirm with the current soil temp.
Feb - early MarApply your first spring pre-emergent for crabgrass and goosegrass before soil at 4 inches hits ~55F and rising (roughly when forsythia blooms). Hold off on nitrogen. Soil-test now.
Mar - AprScalp warm-season lawns low and bag the clippings just before green-up to clear dead winter growth. Spot-treat winter broadleaf weeds. Do NOT fertilize a still-dormant bermuda lawn yet.
Late Apr - MayOnce bermuda/zoysia has fully greened up and 4-inch soil temps are steadily 65F+, make the first nitrogen application. Put down a second pre-emergent ~8-10 weeks after the first for season-long control.
May - AugPeak warm-season growing window: fertilize nitrogen in split applications (about 1 lb N/1,000 sq ft every 4-6 weeks), aerate compacted clay, and mow frequently. Watch for grassy weeds and apply post-emergents as labeled.
Jun - AugScout for summer disease and chinch bugs in the heat. Water deeply but infrequently. Tall fescue lawns: raise mowing height, ease off nitrogen, and watch for brown patch.
Sep - OctStop fertilizing warm-season grass by late August/early September to harden it for winter. Apply a fall pre-emergent for annual bluegrass (Poa annua). Seed or overseed tall fescue now (its best window) and give fescue its main fall feeding.
Nov - DecBermuda and zoysia go dormant brown - this is normal, do not fertilize. Give tall fescue a second fall feeding. Apply lime now if your soil test calls for it. Keep leaves cleared off the turf.